Publication in German Magazine

In 2024, we visited Alto Hospicio in the north of Chile, accompanying Stefanie Schmitt from Germany Trade & Invest (GTAI) to witness firsthand the mountains of discarded clothing in the middle of the Atacama Desert.

We visited the textile landfills located in Alto Hospicio, and reflected on it.

We visited the textile dumps located in Alto Hospicio and reflected on the situation.

A few days ago, the article Lösung gesucht! (“Solution Wanted!”) was published, capturing this visit. Our CEO and Technical Director, Catalina Giraldo, shared her insights.

Below is the translated article:

SOLUTION WANTED!

Filling a gap in the market means, above all, finding a solution to a problem. We present problems that may represent market opportunities. This time: the issue of used clothing in the Atacama Desert.

By Stefanie Schmitt, Germany Trade & Invest Chile

WHAT’S IT ABOUT?

MOUNTAINS OF CLOTHING IN THE DESERT

In the Atacama Desert in Chile, mountains of used clothing pile up. Along with Guatemala, Chile is one of the Latin American countries that imports the most second-hand clothing. For years, it has ranked among the world’s top importers of used clothing. Factors contributing to this include the resale of seasonal garments, online shopping returns, and surplus stock from fashion retailers.

Most of this clothing is sold at second-hand markets in Chile, but some is also exported to neighboring countries. However, unsold items often end up in illegal landfills. Many garments are made of synthetic fibers and are non-biodegradable, meaning the waste persists for a long time. Additionally, the clothes are treated with chemicals that can contaminate the soil. To dispose of these piles of waste, they are often set on fire, releasing toxic emissions from tires, appliances, and other materials—posing a risk to the health of local residents.

33,000 tons of used and new clothing arrived in Chile in 2023.Source: Zofri Chile

WHY IS IT SO COMPLICATED?

BARELY ANY RECYCLING

Thousands of people in Iquique depend on the trade of second-hand clothing. However, many traders operate informally and face obstacles from local authorities who attempt to curb this commerce.

“Currently, around 15% of imported clothing ends up in the Atacama Desert,” explains a textile recycling expert who prefers to remain anonymous. “It could be more, but it’s difficult to determine exactly how much is being discarded.”

According to this expert, the recycling rate of used clothing is extremely low, as the fast fashion market prioritizes mass production and rapid consumption.

Developing textile recycling concepts requires first acknowledging that garments are made of a mix of fabrics and materials. Separating them for reuse is a technical and logistical challenge.

WHAT COULD A SOLUTION LOOK LIKE?

INNOVATION FROM USED TEXTILES

There are some initiatives working to address the issue. The company Procitex operates a plant in Santiago where textiles are converted into fleece fiber, which can be used in agriculture to improve soil quality and as insulation material in construction.

In Iquique, some initiatives have failed due to low demand for recycled products and a lack of economic incentives. Furthermore, the export market for recycled textiles remains limited.

Fast fashion companies and manufacturers have yet to take responsibility for the textile waste crisis. However, some experts believe recycling solutions must be integrated from the beginning of the production chain, ensuring materials are recyclable by design.

“The fashion industry is far from achieving a functional circular economy, and Chile is at the very end of the chain,” says Catalina Giraldo, founder of the sustainability consultancy CAV+S.